The Roosevelt

Southern dining in Richmond, VA- the best fried green tomatoes

As an aspiring chef, I cycle through periods of consuming inspiration and practicing my craft. Over the winter, I was deep in research around famous Black chefs here in America. The catalyst for this was Mashama Bailey’s episode of Chef’s Table on Netflix. After learning she actually has been studying the culinary history of Black Americans, I wanted to take that approach as well. Between online searches and library wandering, I stumbled upon Edna Lewis.

Everything about her story left me enamored and connected to a greater legacy. As a Virginian myself now residing just an hour away from where she grew up, it felt like fate. Then the Finding Edna Lewis documentary came out on PBS earlier this year and I watched with awe. A restaurant featured in the film was The Roosevelt in Richmond, VA. My best friend suggested we try it out together one day and so we did.

Richmond requires two things from you. First, to be open-minded. Second, to be good at parallel parking. The restaurant stands out in the food scene but not so much physically against surrounding historic buildings. The inside felt easeful, quaint and thoughtfully curated. A painting of President Roosevelt towered over the hosts in the back. A wall of windows shaded to protect us from the heatwave we’re experiencing. Silverware and backs of chairs mirroring in design. Nothing was an afterthought here.

Our server Troy either has years of experience in hospitality or is a naturally calm person to be around. He tended to us without making us feel needy with all of our food allergies. We also never felt neglected when the dining room became full to the brim with people from all walks of life. It felt like he was hosting a dinner party at his house and wanted to make sure we were enjoying ourselves. Good service is hard to come by these days so I appreciated his energy and effort deeply.

My first bite was my favorite bite. Hands down the best version of fried green tomatoes I’ve ever delighted in. Not too oily, the tomatoes were juicy and perfectly paired with the most amazing nettle pesto. It was more tempura fried than the cornmeal breading I’m more familiar with. That yielded a different kind of crunch that we quite enjoyed.

The vegan entree offering was the Salt Roasted Sweet Potato dish. It was a shallow bowl cradling a depth a flavor. Petite sweet potatoes with charred edges rested on top a bed of red rice surrounded by a moat of curry. Tahini was drizzled all around and sprinkling of fried leafy greens brought a balance of color and texture to the dish. My friend had the original curry however I am allergic to peanuts and couldn’t. They were unfazed by the request to accommodate my allergy and prepared a different curry just for little ole me. Admittedly, I devoured every bite because it was just so easy to do. It was elevated comfort food with ingredients I understood but with flavors I didn’t know were possible. The dish was perfectly portioned as well.

To conclude our dining experience, we lingered for dessert. I never, ever, get to have a vegan dessert at a restaurant unless it’s an explicitly vegan restaurant. I had to order the Cheerwine Cake. It was a very cute slice of butter cake topped with a cherry frosting, Cheerwine glaze, a few fresh blueberries and some soaked cherries. Super fun to eat, delicate and satisfying after all the other delicious dishes.

In short, this was one of the best dining experiences I’ve had in a long time. Beginning to end, I loved it. Before leaving, I briefly got to meet the executive chef Leah Branch and the team. Very kind to chat with, especially in the middle of peak dinner time. I hope to return each season to try new menu items. I’d highly recommend experiencing it for yourself. The other menu items were being enjoyed by fellow patrons nearby so there’s something delectable for every taste pallet. Thank you to The Roosevelt!

I drove home perfectly full in my belly, in my heart, and into a stunning sunset kissing me on each cheek. What’s more beautiful than that?

With love,

Carrington

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If you’re interested in some delicious vegan baked goods, check out my micro-bakery Chanterelle Cafe! Custom orders are open still. No farmer’s markets in July. Too hot!